Last day before I leave. Everything is completely under control...(ish)

 September 19

7:45 am.

Check in day!  6:15 am for Air Canada to Vancouver (I paid for the bag, against all of my natural instincts).  7:15 for Air France to Paris and onto Antananarivo.  Window seats always. 

I have to work today, I'm not sure why I made that decision, but at least it is from home. I can finish packing over lunch.  Gotta get that bed cleaned off for the cat sitter.  Which reminds me, I should probably confirm that he is still on.  ....   He is.  

Yoiks! 

Just last minute piddely things to do now.  Clean out the fridge, run the dishwasher, take out the garbage.  Apparently write a list of things to do so I don't use this post as a list of things to do.  

4:24 pm

I worked today. I figured, I won't book in any students and I can do some packing etc. over lunch/coffee breaks.  Umm, that did not work at all.  I literally went backwards on packing!  How?! It's supposed to be quiet at work at this time of year!  Poor Robynne.  

My fridge has not been emptied.  My garbage has not been taken out. My list hasn't even been written.  Valerie M, little time temptress, is ordering take out Chinese so I am doing that before I do anything else.  I'm trying to remember if I even ate lunch or if I just unpacked in some sort of fugue state.

8:08 pm 

You are probably thinking I've come on here to tell you that I am done packing.  Wrong, of course.  After dinner, I went and picked the poor straggling, struggling tomatoes in my back yard, cut them up, bagged them and froze them.  And a bit of rhubarb.  Then I fried up some prawns to add to the left over chow mien to freeze for lunches when I get back (sorry, Kelly, future fish in the microwave!).  Then I bagged up some cream that is 2 week past the best by date so I can add it when I make yogurt when I get back.   Did the dishes.  Took out the garbage (actually, that last one is a lie but soon).  

All the while I was deciding on which sandals to take.  I took a vote of four.  Three for the Keens, one for the other.  The boys all went for the keens (Rob, Dwayne and Melissa).  The girl (Amy) went for the exposed toenails.  I have been wearing each pair as I work about the house while not packing.  Keens it is.

Oh, and I started my malaria pills with dinner.  

Ok, time to get serious.  I'm going in.  It's packing time (again). 

9:18 pm

Ok, you bunch of nervous nellies. I'm packed!  I almost forgot to add my bathroom bag but I did not.  It's in there.  All for around 25 pounds.  Plus one tiny but heavy carry on.  

You may notice that I gave in.  I am using the wheelie duffle.  I should have just given in to fate when I switched over to tech quick dry pants.  I remember dividing tourists in Ecuador:  those in technical pants and those in just normal pants.  We were in normal pants at the time but there was a definite leaning to the tech pants crowd.  

I think that is it for the night.  This is the last you will hear from me until I am en route.  

One last stolen Lemur image:  

Mongoose Lemur

The final countdown...

Just in case you have the 1986 song, The Final Countdown by Europe, in your head like I do ... 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9jK-NcRmVcw
I was 1000% sure this was a Rocky song, but apparently not.  

September 15

Time to get serious, people!! This is not a drill.  I am leaving in 4 days, 14 hours and 52 minutes!

I was printing some confirmations.  I noticed that my 'booked' seats are not showing on my Air France flights.  That was a rabbit hole, and two hours later...  

After unsuccessfully trying to book them on the AF website, I just called them. I could book my seats for the Van->Paris and Paris->Van flights but not the three in the middle.  But that led me to figuring out when I can do my online check in'.  7:15 on Tuesday for outgoing.  And Oct 11 for my return flight.  Alarm set in my phone for both. I downloaded the AF app to my phone so I would be ready.  

And then I remembered the unattached Air Canada flight to Vancouver. That one is Tuesday at 6am.  Sure, why not.  Alarm set.  AC app downloaded. I am going to be so awesome at work on Tuesday...  

I went to the bank yesterday and emptied my bank account so I would have enough money to buy my Euros.  

Packing has not progressed.  

Bloody hell, I just noticed that I have to pay for a checked bag to Vancouver.  I guess that will affect my packing choices.  Will it be cheaper to pay $31 for a checked bag.  Or buy new bug spray and suntan lotion etc. in Madagascar?  I'll probably use the charm offensive (stress on offensive) when I check in and hope for the best.  

September 17

It's Sunday.  I leave in three days.  Today is my day to pack.  So, I went downtown with Valerie M for 'something to do'.  What is wrong with me?  Now I am sitting for a bit to cool down after my walk home and instead of turning on the tv which will  be the kiss of death for getting anything done for the rest of the day, I decided to start up my travel computer and make sure all of m necessary websites are accessible.  I seem to have new passwords every trip.  Anyway, all set.  Here I am writing this from my wee computer.  

And then I uploaded this meta-photo from the blogspot app on my phone!  Doubly set!

I bought my Euro yesterday.  It better be enough.  13 nice crisp 100 euro bills. Hopefully I'll have some left over for a future trip to Germany? TBD

I did my last load of laundry today.  I am charging the many electronic things that I am taking (computer, camera, water filter thing, e-book).  

Ok back to the task at hand - PACKING!!  

September 18

Today I set up some payments to go out while I'm away.  I don't need a hit to my credit score on top of my actual money situation.  On that note, my bank felt the need to rub it in. 

Packing

12:10

12:11

Last minute details.   Made the decision to take an extra pair of pants. Sewed my secret third pocket into my second pair of pants. Culled two shirts to make room for extra pants.  

I can't find my waist wallet from my last trip.  Stop at the mall and bought a new one at Bentley's.  How is that place still open?  

I'll sign off here with a hairy eared dwarf lemur

Packing, shopping, fretting, the usual for the last days before launch

 August 30

I went to the travel clinic yesterday.  But first I had to find my vaccine card.  I could not find it where it is supposed to live - in my travel wallet with my passport. I have to admit, I never really unpacked from Morocco.  I just left my travel stuff in my backpack and shoved it in a closet.  So, I pulled that out and emptied everything onto my bedroom floor.  No vaccine card.  I never did find it but I guess the 'unpacking' is the start of the packing process.

I'm glad I am already booked for everything.  Nothing like a very serious travel nurse reading off all of the things that will kill me in Madagascar.  I might have reconsidered.  Let's be honest, probably not but still. 

I had to get a Polio booster!  I am going to vacation in a place where I might get polio.  POLIO!  And let's not even talk about the rabies, plague, dengue etc.  

I got my Dukoral.  And I am going to do the malaria treatment.  I haven't done that for years but I feel like all of the National Parks and huts hanging out over water make malaria a possibility and the shady health care and questionable infrastructure makes me want to avoid it if at all possible.  I will be leaving too early for Flu vaccine and Covid booster so fingers crossed for those two. 

September 9 

September 10

Ackkk.  just barely over a week to go before I leave.  I started my 'packing' today, which always starts by just throwing things I might need at my spare bed.  I still haven't decided on a bag yet.  I bought a new wheelie duffle with pack straps, trying to get the best of all options.  I am almost certain I won't take that.  Something about wheels makes me feel like i'm cheating. Even though I am old and broken and booked on an organized tour, I can't let the 'backpacker' ideal of myself go.  So, bag: TBD.  

I took my Dukoral today.  I took my Malaria prescription  to the pharmacy yesterday.  I just have to remember to pick it up.   I counted my medication.  I like to take a full two rounds in case I lose a bag.  I have enough for 1.85 trips.  I don't have time to get a refill so if I lose a bag, I will ration I guess.  It'll be fine.  I've only had my medication lost once (to leaking bug spray) which is when I learned, double and divide!

I think I forgot to mention that I bought a new camera to replace the one I destroyed in the Antarctic. I actually bought it months ago but it was another hit to the budget.  But I need a decent camera.   You'll all remember the camera situation in Morocco.  We can't have that again (a compact point & shoot - although it did take some good photos IMO). 

September 11

So, the no need to shop situation just couldn't be tolerated, clearly. I was on my way to dinner last night with 15 minutes to spare so I stopped in at MEC.  I like to use hotel kettles to purify my water and avoid buying plastic bottles.  My travel nurse agreed with this as a plan, but since I don't know the kettle situation on all of the stops, she suggested I get a SteriPEN as well.  Kind of expensive but it will probably be usable for years, the rest of my trips, the rest of my life...

Anyway, I bought the cheapest version.  It purifies water using UV light.  Here's a short video.  

September 12

I ordered Euros today.  I was trying to figure out how much I need vs how much I have in the bank so I can actually pay.  Lots vs nothing.  So, I just ordered lots and I'll figure out the rest of it when my Visa bill is due.  Did I mention I found €145 in my travel wallet from my last trip.  I read on the G website to take big, crisp, new bills.  So I ordered 100s.  My €145 is all 5s and 10s.  I'll save those for the Paris wine and cheese, airport gift shop extravaganza on the way home.  

Speaking of my last trip, my guide Mohammed and his family in Morocco are all fine after their terrible earthquake.  I'm still in a WhatsApp chat with my group.  I really hope the Madagascar group is half as good as the Morocco group/guide.  

September 13. 

One week to go! 

12:10 pm

12:11 pm

Ok, time to wrap this post up and send it out to the world.  

Here's your dose of lemur: 

Pale fork-marked dwarf lemur

Gadammit... - (amended) - Yay!... (amended) - this trip just needs to start already!

August 20 (one month to go!)

'no problem'

Remember when I said in my last post that I was going to wait to book a single room so that it went on my next visa bill because I am travel-budgeting this trip on the fly.  Who could have guessed that might go wrong.  Everyone but me probably.  

I know, I know, this is 100% my own fault.  No more single rooms allotted for my trip... 

They let me pay for the single supplement and I MIGHT get my own room.  If I don't, I'll get a refund. They will let me know next week.  

Even if I don't get my own room, I'm sure it will be fine.  I will make best friends with whomever I am sharing with and that will be that.  

Ok, back to homework.  Bah! 

August 24

Update on the single room.  I got an email today saying "Good news".  They were able to get me into a single room.  Sorry, potential best friend.  Let's be honest, there was just as good of a chance that we would have been mortal enemies by the end.  I guess I will have to keep being nice to my Canadian best friends.  But I am going to suggest they better consider finding an apartment in a cool foreign location with a guest room if they want to compete.  

I got an email from Lakana Hotel, my non-refundable hotel in Nosy Bohara.  They weren't cancelling on me, miraculously.  They were letting me know they can't process my credit card from Madagascar so I will have to pay when I get there.  So, 'non-refundable' gets a bit more flexible...  I went back and read some more reviews.  I am still in.  

But some of the reviews were saying try to get the bungalow at the end of the pier for unobstructed views!  Good thinking!  I emailed them.  They said that it is 'free' (which confused me but I finally figured out they meant available) but it would be an extra $12 night.  Sure, why not.  I'm burning money anyway.  I emailed back!  Let's do it!  

Did I mention it will be the end of whale season so if they happen to be swimming by, I want an unobstructed view!  

Here are some pictures from Lakana Hotel's website: 

https://www.sainte-marie-hotel.com/en/sainte-marie-activities/sainte-marie-humpback-whales

Additional good news.  I am getting a backpay cheque before I leave so that should lessen a bit of the travel budget issues.  I might get back up to $0!  

August 26

I woke up this morning to the news talking about Madagascar.  That's unusual.  I perked up.  Is this going to affect my trip?  I immediately assumed some sort of political unrest.  But no, it was a stampede at a football stadium that resulted in at least 12 fatalities and many more injuries.  Tragic yes.  But it won't derail my trip.  I didn't even know they had such a skookum stadium in Antananarivo.  

At most, sentences like this  At least 15 people were killed in a similar incident during a music concert at the stadium in 2019, and in 2018 one person died and at least 37 were injured in a crush ahead of a qualifying football match for the African Cup of Nations might make me wary of attending an event at the stadium but it wasn't in my plans anyway.  So, I went back to sleep.  

Later while looking at BBC for information which took me to SKY news which lead me to The Independent which lead me to their article, Madagascar Travel Guide: Everything you need to know before you go.  Which lead me to this sentence: Since distances are considerable and many of Madagascar’s rural highways are in a lamentable condition, the best way to cover several regions is to hop around with Air Madagascar. Unfortunately, they’re notoriously unreliable, changing flight times and dates with minimal notice; prepare accordingly.

Excellent. I'm not sure how to prepare more accordingly other than to spend my days in Nosy Bohara looking for a job and an apartment.  

August 29

I have too much time on my hands and too much headspace to give to this trip.  I may have changed hotels again.  I am losing track.  I decided to stay in the hotel the tour starts at, the Belvedere, and I booked it as part of the tour.  It was only $6 more than Sole.  I figured if I found any of my tour mates at the airport, we could share a cab (or I can scam my way onto one of their 'airport transfers' which is considerably more than the estimated cost of a taxi - I wonder if this 'bracket' is long enough to be it's own sentence, outside of a bracket... nah)

It is clearly time to start packing so I have something else to concentrate on.  

Packing seems like it will be a new post so I will sign off on this one.  

A lemur for closure

A Red Ruffed Lemur

😐😐

Another new hotel. Sheesh!

August 9

Ok, I know Madagascar is a poor country and I am pretty much ready to go with the flow once I'm there but that isn't going to stop me from griping about trying to plan before I get there. 

It turns out the 'the Madagascar plan' has some Nazi history so no 
 Google image for that. No swastikas on my blog is a loose rule I have. 
 Instead you get this children's online geography course on Madagascar

Last post I mentioned that my hotel on Nosy Bohara sent a message that they had a family event in September and can't host me.  

I realized afterwards, that I was booked in October.  But I can't be bothered to email and clarify (in French) so I just found a different hotel (more expensive but hopefully better?).

Then yesterday I was checking my bookings and I noticed that my hotel in Antananarivo, in which I am booked three times, was asking me to upgrade my room (three times) to include a private bathroom for $12 a night.  Umm, the literal name of my room is "Twin room with Private Bathroom"!  I checked and here is the amenities now.  Note the CROSSED OUT toilet and shower!  Nope.  

I made this giant so you can see the crossing out.  

Again, I'm not invested enough to ask questions.  So, I went in and found another new hotel for my three stays in Antananarivo.  This time the hotel that the tour starts in has rooms but I found a different place nearby that had a suite (with a toilet, I'm 90% sure!) and included breakfast for not much more.  But again, they are getting more money out of me.  I will remind myself that dropping money there is not a bad thing, they need it more than me.  But expect more grumbling if this happens again.  

I am now booked at Sole Hotel.  It looks somewhat utilitarian.  Don't fall in love, we may lose this one too. 

the 'suite' 

The view of the outside is less than comforting.  

It ain't the Ritz... 

August 14. 

I got an email from my new hotel asking if I want a transfer from the airport for $22.  That's probably a good deal.  I'll have to think about that one.  The only other time I booked an airport transfer (Ecuador), it didn't show up.  

Once I land in Antananarivo, I have to go through immigration and get my visa which I hear can take some time (or not, who knows anything anymore...).  Maybe I should just grab a cab when I get through.  It will be late though.  Still mulling this one over. 

Non-hotel related topic.  I called my favourite money exchange place.  No, they and no one else will have Malagasy Ariary (MGA).  I will have to take USD or Euros and convert there. I don't love the double hit on exchange but it is what it is.  

Other than that, I haven't done much research/planning. I haven't even had a chance to read more of my Lonely Planet.  So, let's pull the plug on this post and start fresh later.  

A lemur:  This is an Aye-Aye. It is hard to find/see so it's a big 'get'.  But it looks to me like the stuff nightmares are made of so I will be fine if I don't 'get' an Aye-Aye, thank you very much 🕇🧄🧛

bye-bye aye-aye

New hut, new costs, new warnings, new people, new visa (who knew?)

August 2

I just wrote a post about the deadliest road from Nosy Bohara and how that show kind of freaked me out.  The next day, I got an email from the airline saying they have changed my flight to Nosy Bohara (just by a couple of hours).  And then an email from my hotel there saying they were cancelling my reservation.  It's a sign I said...  A sign to double down!  

I booked a new, better, even more picturesque hotel with a bungalow right over the water!  

Hotel Lakana, this one is on the west side of the island. And comes with breakfast and dinner.  Just to laugh further in the faces of the gods of bad decisions and fair warnings, this booking is non-refundable!  HA! I'll show you... 

August 4

Planning!  

August 6

BC Day long weekend but I forgot I signed up for a class so I am at my computer.  Since I'm here, procrastinating and not doing my homework, time for a bit of travel research.  

After the Morocco entry form debacle, I thought maybe I should actually look and see if Madagascar has some sort of entry visa.  I had already kind of looked but I realized I hadn't REALLY looked.  

Google Madagascar visa. First site is the Government of Canada's info on Madagascar.  The first info they give is travel advisories.  Risk level high.  This doesn't really surprise me.  The Government of Canada is a bit of an old granny with the advisories.  Robberies, murders, political unrest blah blah blah.  

This was a bit more surprising, although I don't know why.  Assaults on Nosy Bohara common enough to get a mention.  Avoid traveling this area alone. I'll stay in my twig hut, I'm sure it is secure.  

I did find out there is an election in November 2023.  I already knew that they are a bit, let's say precarious in their government, so I'm glad I'm not going to be there for that. 

Ok, enough of that nonsense.  Do I need a visa?

Apparently yes.  I can get it before I go or I can get it at the airport.  I do not like sending my passport to random "foreign representatives in Canada" so I'll get mine at the airport.  I can live with 'long delays'.  $27 CAD according to the website.  

But I can fill out the form now so I'll do that before I leave.  Do I really need a passport photo? I am guessing not, but do I want to spend $15 to be safe and/or to save time at the airport? Maybe.

Thinking about saving money.  I was half considering not paying for the single supplement and risking  not getting my room on the tour.  When I went to Morocco, there was only one other single woman and she paid the supplement.  So, I got my own room by default!  Score!

I opened this to discussion in the staff lunch room and got a unanimous and resounding "get your own room, how is this even a question...".  They are right of course, the lunch room counsel is always right. I am broke but not that broke.  

I found the 'chat' for my tour on my G Adventures app.  No one chats apparently, but it does show that there are 14 people on my tour so far, and it shows their names and when they got added.  Based on very suspect data (guessing gender by name, guessing single status by sign up date), I see at least four single women.  

Faith, Wilma, Bobbie & John.  Sabrina.  Joanne (the only one I can be sure of). Boyana & Dachaz.  Jenna & Haider (I've chatted with Jenna on FB and I think she is a single).  Guido.  Lynda.  Wayne & Aisling (just joined today).  Garry and Catherine joined but unjoined two days later. 

I called G and outright asked. Of course the nice CSW couldn't tell me but he did say 'if you want your own room, I would recommend you book one'.  It is less than $700.  When is the last date I can add this option (basically, can I get it onto my next visa bill - did I mention I have no travel budget for this trip!).  Mid-August.  Ok, it's in my calendar. 

Back to my regularly scheduled long weekend!  But first, a lemur: 

Indri

Deadliest Roads Madagascar and other research mistakes

You all remember for Morocco I refused to do any research since I was going on a tour and I didn't have to know where I was going next, I would just arrive there and discover it as I went.  It worked somewhat.  But since I am bored and have nothing to do but wait, I have been watching some shows.  

I started with David Attenborough's Madagascar.  Lovely, nary a bad view to be had.  Lots of curious animals and beautiful birds.  Nothing bad to see here people, just look at the cute lemur dancing across the unspoiled landscape.  

But then my friend Joe suggested I watch Deadliest Roads Madagascar.  Not a lemur or a bird to be seen except for some very maltreated chickens.  I think I could watch the Friday the 13th movie franchise and be less sure someone was going to die than when I watched this show!  

So, remember when I said I was leaving two days between Nosy Bohara and my flight home so I would have time to get to boat/bus it to Antananarivo if my flight got cancelled.  Guess which road was the star of Deadliest Roads Madagascar.  The very road I would have to take!  Umm, no.  So, if my flight is cancelled, I will live in Madagascar forever.  

First of all, this is the name of the episode: Dicing with Death Madagascar.  

The trip over this very road (Note Nosy Bohara right there in the middle)

 

Here are some actual footage from the episode.  These are just a couple that I managed to grab between covering my eyes.  I didn't grab the ones of people puking in the back of the 'bus'.  The bus is a small pickup truck, licensed to carry 15 people but actually carrying 20. At one point, the 'bus' engine was fully underwater for several hours. The bridges look like they are made out of twigs and stir-sticks. The roads are just rutted paths of mud, rocks, rivers and potholes and the occasional beautiful view if you are not covering your eyes and have a window seat (that's extra!)

Those that stuck with it did manage to arrive at their destination, only 36 hours late.  And they were happy to just get there at all. 

The episode was also about the illegal rosewood industry.  They are cutting rosewood trees at an alarming rate.  And then transporting the logs for 10 days over some very precarious terrain.  Also many possible deaths.  And the sapphire industry.  Again, death defying (or not defied in some cases) for VERY little gain.  This is a very poor country. So, no rosewood or sapphire gifts for friends and family. 

If you want to see it (seriously, brace yourself): 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKrlsCVHwWA&t=767s

I am really really hoping the main road that the tour takes is considerably better than this one.  I'm not asking for TransCanada level, but mostly paved... hopefully?  

Oh, another bit of research.  I bought a Kindle and got free Kindle Unlimited.  The books on there are crap but they do have Lonely Planet Madagascar!  Excellent. I have been reading that.  Where I discovered that everyone calls Antananarivo 'Tana'.  So much for my pronunciation practice.  

I also have been googling.  Never google.  I found '8 reasons to go to Madagascar'.  Here is number 8

I was looking for a place without a plague epidemic so lucky me!  What were the chances?  (Sensible precautions will be taken!)

And I've paid for the tour now so I'm going, deadly roads and plagues be damned! 

End with a picture of a lemur

silky sifakas lemur