Showing posts with label Hotel Belvedere. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hotel Belvedere. Show all posts

Wednesday, October 11, 2023

Antananarivo and Getting to Nosy Boraha (Ile St. Marie)

Everyone left the next day.  Chris and I were the only two still at the Belvedere, waiting for a flight the following day.  Others were off home, to Nosy Be or staying at other hotels for their last day. 

I still wanted to go to the bird park.  Chris wanted to come too so I adjusted my 6 am start time to 11.  I know, I'm not a good birder.  I also wanted to sleep in after our late night good-bye dinner. 

We organized a taxi to take us there and to wait and bring us back to the hotel.  The actual name of the park is: Parc Tsarasaotra

It is a park with a lake in the middle and a lovely path (for the most part) that circles the lake. There are a LOT of water birds, ducks and herons mostly.

Red-billed Teals everywhere!


White-faced Whistling ducks mixed in

A couple of these weird round houses.  
They looked abandoned but one can't be sure here

Fishing on the lake (legally?)

These two followed us for half the lake




We left the main path at one point and found the heronry.  Lots of nesting cattle egrets and some black crowned night-herons.  It was noisy! 

nests.  I think if you zoom in, you can see a baby but who can tell

fledgling night-heron and mother ignoring him

On the way to the park, we had passed a tourist market. Chris used her limited French to somehow get the taxi driver to stop there on our way back so we could have a quick looksie.  


I bought some little baskets from these women. 
I don't need little baskets! I am basically a crow. 
'look, something shiny!'

I bought Chris's remaining Malagasy Aviary thinking I can pawn it off on Paul who may come here one day in the near future.  

The next day, I was flying to Nosy Boraha and Chris was flying home.  Our flights weren't too far apart so we shared a taxi. She was departing from the nice International building. I was waiting in Domestic so once she left the taxi, we did not see each other again.   I assume she made it home without incident.  I, on the other hand, had incident.

I wrote a whole long tirade the day of.  I better check that, I'm not nearly so annoyed now that it's all worked out.  Oh, it's not too bad.  I'll leave it as is.

Chris and I had booked a taxi to the airport for 9:15.  My domestic flight to St. Marie was at 1 pm and her international flight was for around 2 pm.  All of the warnings said the traffic could be so bad it might take up to two hours to get to the airport so we gave lots of wiggle room.  Of course we got there in under 90 but better safe than sorry. 

Chris and I parted ways, she to the international terminal and me to domestic.  I took my extra time to finally post to the blog.  I ate my snack and then scrolled Facebook for a while.  1 pm came and went.  Some of the tour group were heading to Nosy Be for a 4:30 flight.  They arrived.  I swear, I said goodbye with hugs at least five times to that group, we kept running into each other!  Anyway, they said they had been told by the ticket agent that their 4:30 flight was going to be delayed until my 1 pm flight (it was now 2:30) got back from St. Marie.  Tsaradia Air (aka Madagascar Air) only had the one plane that day!  

Another hour passed.  There was an announcement which I could not understand but people started lining up.  This was the third time there was an announcement and people lined up so I was not exactly sure but I was optimistic enough to hit the loo before boarding.  When I got back 5 minutes later, everyone was gone!  Just the Nosy Be people were left.  I couldn't possibly have missing boarding!!!  

So, I went up to the one person who looked official and asked where everyone went.  She said something I didn't understand and then directed me out of the departure area and past the ticketing area, into a back room where there was total chaos!  As she was leading me, I was still thinking we were just boarding from another area of the airport.  But once I got to that room, I had an inkling things were not going well.  I finally found someone who spoke English.  Flight is cancelled.  No idea when it will be rebooked.  Stand in this line.

I was very late to the line so I had time to sort of glean what the plan was.  The airline was giving us a taxi to and from a free hotel room.  They would let us know when the flight would be rebooked.  How?  The hotel will let us know.

Now that I am less annoyed, respect to these two.  They
processed everyone on that plane, no matter the language, 
using manually filled out forms with old carbon paper, 
and stayed calm and pleasant the whole time.  

Then she told me to go to that window to get my luggage.  I stood in line for the next window.  No, this is not where you get your luggage.  Go back to that massive line that is taking forever.  Blasphemy may have been uttered.   Some French person said something sympathetic in French.  I knew they couldn't understand me but I muttered something about this line and that line and then back to this line.  Someone English overhead and told me that my luggage was actually just in the next room, circling the luggage carousel.  Excellent.  Luggage obtained.  

Now just to get the taxi.  Wait outside, we will call you.  How?  Don't worry.  People were milling around outside, comparing our little forms with hotel names on them.  We were being dispersed far and wide.  I knew there was at least a family of seven going to my hotel.  I just about despaired.  I was never getting to my hotel!   But eventually a van showed up and loaded all 12 plus babies into it, with luggage on top.  We finally arrived at the hotel after 6 pm.  

The hotel was pretty basic, shared bathroom
but it was clean and it did the job

We were to be provided with dinner and breakfast.  Around 6:45, I went up to the restaurant.  No one was there but the tables were set family style.  I guess we would be eating together.  I got a call at 7:15.  Dinner is ready.  I headed up and I was first to arrive.  There were three long tables, two with place settings for everyone.  I sat at the end.  People started to arrive.  No one would sit with me!  It was quite funny.  Me at one end of the long table, the only other single person way at the other end.  The couples and families all just moved the place settings to the other spots.  I ate one sausage and the carrot salad and then mercifully was released back to my room.

When I first sat down

10 minutes later.  

I got an email from  Tsaradia after dinner that my flight was rescheduled for 11 am the next morning.  We were served breakfast and then bundled back into the van and back to the airport, where we waited anxiously.  When the sign changed to Saint Marie - BOARDING, a great cheer went up from the room.  

And we were off!  Finally.  I had emailed my hotel on the island to let them know I would be arriving a day late.  I'm sure everyone on that island knows exactly when the planes are arriving.  As it turned out, they didn't change me for that first night, so that was nice.  I guess they could give my room to the people who couldn't leave! 

Boarding!


Terrible picture from the plane window.  That point to the left middle
is the pirate's graveyard!  The whole reason for this excursion
This view also really made me want to get to the east side 
of the island.  Look at that blue!

My hotel!  Hotel Lakana, easily identifiable even from the plane

Ok, a short one today.  I have to go have breakfast and finish packing for my flight home this afternoon.  I had thought that I had so much Aviary left and then I bought more from Chris.  But now I am in dire straights.  I only have enough local money for the taxi to the airport.  I have to pay for last night's hotel and meals with euros!  Saves me from visiting the funky gift shop I had hoped to go to today.  It's all blog I guess.  Maybe I will get this done before I get home!

Sunday, September 24, 2023

Antananarivo day 2

I am up at 4am.  Mostly because I am still dealing with jet lag.  I also have a 5:30 am meet up for my next guided walk.  But I actually got up and out of bed, dressed and over to the bar so I could get another post out.  

Our tour started on Friday.  We met at 6pm for dinner.  The itinerary had been reversed so we were flying out the next day, meeting at the hotel at 3:30.  So we had the day.  Half of the group decided to go to the Royal Palace.  It is a ways out of town.  I heard the traffic in Tana was bad but it was BAD!  It took us two hours to get there. Which gave a nice overview of the town, poor parts, less poor parts, people going about their business.


We eventually got to the palace. Which was a palace.  But a Madagascar palace, to be fair.  Here are a bunch of pictures which may jog my memory a bit. 



View from the meeting room

The meeting room

The crypts

People come and light candles at the crypts still
It's hard to see but there are blood drops all around
from animal sacrifices performed outside the king's crypt

After the palace, we went for lunch at a 'local' restaurant (not a tourist place).  There were kittens there.  I think I have more pictures of the kittens than the rest of the vacation at that time.  

This is (from front) middle kitten, little kitten, cat 

Little kittens when we first arrived, before the begging began

Oh, I forgot.  As we were driving to the palace, we passed an exhumation.  I don't think I mentioned this was on my wish list because I didn't think it would happen. It's called Famadihana.  In Madagascar, around this time, families remove ancestors from their crypts, wrap their bones in cloth and drink with them for the day.  It is a cross between a family reunion and a wake.  Very celebratory and lots of rum.  Then re-encrypt them.  I told our guide if we can get in on one of those parties, I could die happy.  I didn't get a picture from the road but as we were waiting for our food, a group passed the restaurant on their way to an exhumation.  It was like a parade.  Music, dancing, lots of hooting!  


Those tubes are the mats they use to carry the bones

Our drive back to town was much faster, despite the cattle drive going down the middle of the city street. 


Back to the hotel.  Gathered our group and off to the airport.  Where our flight was delayed. Of course.  

We arrived in whatever town/airport we arrived in and got to the Bamboo Club Resort in Ifaty around midnight.  It was pitch black.  I found my bungalow and crashed.  

And that is where I will leave you.  Day one in Ifaty has been a LOT.  I will try to post the million pictures I took today or tomorrow (wifi dependent).

Friday, September 22, 2023

Day one - Antananarivo

Day one - Antananarivo

I am on a deck right outside of my hotel room.  In my room, great wifi, 5 feet on the other side of the wall, not so great.  But I would rather be outside than in my room so here we go. 

I set my alarm for 8am.  I guess I set it but did not turn it on.  So, I woke up at 10.  Breakfast was until 11am.  I got there at 10:45 as they were putting up the chairs.  Am I too late?  No, of course not madam, who we have to be nice to or we will get fired, just this way.   I was not the last one to arrive so guilt lessened. 

Remember when I bought that little madagascar book so I could use the little map insert.  I forgot the map insert.  I downloaded google map app and set out for Lake Anosy.  As I sit here on my deck, I can literally see it.  But this morning I was setting out blind.  As I was leaving I told the guy at the front desk where I was going and he sort of pointed me in the right direction and warned me to watch my phone.  The phone I had to have out to find my way.  

I found my way.  I think I missed one turn but when I tried to take the google route home, the street I missed was, how to put this..., not strolling dumb tourist friendly.  

I made it to the lake, walked to the jetty, peninsula, the thing that sticks out into the middle of the lake.  There is a lovely little park around that side of the lake.  $5000 to enter (about $1.50).  Worth it.  At least two new birds.  Probably as common as pigeons but I like to get off to a good 'lifer' start. 

Black Heron, in process of 'mantling'

Squacco Heron.  Handsome fellow.

The infamous stadium



I and all of my stuff made it back to the hotel safe and sound.  I met one of my tour people, Guiddo on the way in.  He is from Germany.    

Our group meets in two hours and the tour begins.

Later that day.  

I met my group.  One person dropped out which is good.  There are 15 on the tour.  I think four couples and the rest are single.  Five Americans; two couples (mom, day, daughter and her husband), one single guy from New Jersey.  Two from Germany;  one single woman, one single man.  Three from the UK, one couple and one single female.  A couple from Serbia (?) living in Amsterdam.  One single woman from Hong Kong living in Kenya.  And two single women from Canada (including yours truly).  If my math is wrong, I forgot someone.  

Our guide's name is Coco.  He is from south Madagascar.

Free Rum.  Choice of ginger, coffee or cinnamon.  I went with coffee.

I would 100% been sharing a room if I didn't pay for the single room.  One single woman is getting a free single room, you're welcome.  

Tomorrow we are flying out of Antananarivo around 7 pm to the coast.  In the day, we are taking a tour of some palace or castle or some such.  I am going because the group is going.  Bird park will have to wait.  

Early to bed tonight.  After I slept in so late today, I have to be prepared for an early morning tomorrow.  

 The next day (day two Antananarivo)

Company at the next table at breakfast. 

It is two days later but I cannot get wifi so I may not be able to update.  I'll give you this bot for now and will try to at least get blogger app to load on my computer so I can do some I posted updates . 

Thursday, September 21, 2023

Two days later, I'm in Madagascar!

 I am tucked in my little Madagascar bed eating airport Pringles, but I thought I should check in.

Arriving in Vancouver

Let's start at the beginning.  So many days ago (two?) I got up at 2:45 am to get ready to leave for the airport at 3:45am for my 6 am flight to Vancouver.  My saintly friend Valerie M. drove me.  You may remember that I booked a super early flight in case ANYthing went wrong and I had the ferry as a back up.  Well nothing went wrong so I had a several hour layover in Vancouver. I bought some Pringles and read my book.

By the time I bought my Pringles, 
I was the only bag left on the carosal.

Flight to Paris was equally uneventful.  The food was mediocre at best.  I was already scrambled for what day and time it was.  It was dark but it was daytime according to my internal clock.  I watched three movies and four 45 minute tv episodes, French with subtitles to keep me awake.

I had about two hours in Paris to get to M gates in Terminal 2E.  And the 2E train was not working so they has buses running.  No problem, I made it just as people were starting to line up to board.  I was looking for blue passports and quick dry pants to see if I could find another tour person.  Barely any and no one near me to talk to.  

When I got on the plane and to my seat, my seat mate was a Canadian, also heading to a tour but with a different company.  That was the extent of our initial conversation because I fell asleep before we even left the ground.  It was a long flight, over ten hours.  This time it was bright daylight outside but my internal clock was saying it is time to sleep.  So, I slept some, read my book some and chatted with Karen some. She is also solo traveling.  We had a lot in common but her trips involve rafting and biking and mountain climbing.  So, really nothing in common at all!  haha.  

Anyway, near the end of the flight I asked where she is staying in Antananarivo. The Belvedere!  Did she order an airport transfer?  Well, yes she did.  And that's how I scammed a free ride to the hotel.  I gave the guy a huge tip so not actually free, but technically free.  Whichever, it's a win for me!

Multilevel line ups to visa and border control.  I've got my passport sticker and stamp so I am good to go. 


Before we left the airport, I exchanged 400 euros.  I have a brick of cash now.  I don't even know what I got, she didn't give me a receipt.

my room is really dark, or I don't know how 
to use my camera, or both.

30 minute ride to the hotel.  Lots of clusters of men standing around the streets at 11:30 at night. No women I could see.  So, no walking around at night.  

It was hard to see what the hotel looked like in the dark but it seems to have lots of open to the outside areas.  My room is nice.  There is a second bed up on a loft. I'm going to have to take pictures in the day with better light. Or after I figure out my camera.  Or both.

This should be fun.  I am trying my water purifier for my water tonight.  So, we should know by tomorrow how well it works.  Fingers crossed! 

It starts as bacteria and turns it into nuclear waste

This is a terrible post but I am publishing anyway because I am too tired to care.  Good night all.  

Tuesday, August 29, 2023

Gadammit... - (amended) - Yay!... (amended) - this trip just needs to start already!

August 20 (one month to go!)

'no problem'

Remember when I said in my last post that I was going to wait to book a single room so that it went on my next visa bill because I am travel-budgeting this trip on the fly.  Who could have guessed that might go wrong.  Everyone but me probably.  


I know, I know, this is 100% my own fault.  No more single rooms allotted for my trip... 

They let me pay for the single supplement and I MIGHT get my own room.  If I don't, I'll get a refund. They will let me know next week.  

Even if I don't get my own room, I'm sure it will be fine.  I will make best friends with whomever I am sharing with and that will be that.  


Ok, back to homework.  Bah! 

August 24

Update on the single room.  I got an email today saying "Good news".  They were able to get me into a single room.  Sorry, potential best friend.  Let's be honest, there was just as good of a chance that we would have been mortal enemies by the end.  I guess I will have to keep being nice to my Canadian best friends.  But I am going to suggest they better consider finding an apartment in a cool foreign location with a guest room if they want to compete.  

I got an email from Lakana Hotel, my non-refundable hotel in Nosy Bohara.  They weren't cancelling on me, miraculously.  They were letting me know they can't process my credit card from Madagascar so I will have to pay when I get there.  So, 'non-refundable' gets a bit more flexible...  I went back and read some more reviews.  I am still in.  

But some of the reviews were saying try to get the bungalow at the end of the pier for unobstructed views!  Good thinking!  I emailed them.  They said that it is 'free' (which confused me but I finally figured out they meant available) but it would be an extra $12 night.  Sure, why not.  I'm burning money anyway.  I emailed back!  Let's do it!  

Did I mention it will be the end of whale season so if they happen to be swimming by, I want an unobstructed view!  

Here are some pictures from Lakana Hotel's website: 

https://www.sainte-marie-hotel.com/en/sainte-marie-activities/sainte-marie-humpback-whales

Additional good news.  I am getting a backpay cheque before I leave so that should lessen a bit of the travel budget issues.  I might get back up to $0!  

August 26

I woke up this morning to the news talking about Madagascar.  That's unusual.  I perked up.  Is this going to affect my trip?  I immediately assumed some sort of political unrest.  But no, it was a stampede at a football stadium that resulted in at least 12 fatalities and many more injuries.  Tragic yes.  But it won't derail my trip.  I didn't even know they had such a skookum stadium in Antananarivo.  


At most, sentences like this  At least 15 people were killed in a similar incident during a music concert at the stadium in 2019, and in 2018 one person died and at least 37 were injured in a crush ahead of a qualifying football match for the African Cup of Nations might make me wary of attending an event at the stadium but it wasn't in my plans anyway.  So, I went back to sleep.  

Later while looking at BBC for information which took me to SKY news which lead me to The Independent which lead me to their article, Madagascar Travel Guide: Everything you need to know before you go.  Which lead me to this sentence: Since distances are considerable and many of Madagascar’s rural highways are in a lamentable condition, the best way to cover several regions is to hop around with Air Madagascar. Unfortunately, they’re notoriously unreliable, changing flight times and dates with minimal notice; prepare accordingly.

Excellent. I'm not sure how to prepare more accordingly other than to spend my days in Nosy Bohara looking for a job and an apartment.  

August 29

I have too much time on my hands and too much headspace to give to this trip.  I may have changed hotels again.  I am losing track.  I decided to stay in the hotel the tour starts at, the Belvedere, and I booked it as part of the tour.  It was only $6 more than Sole.  I figured if I found any of my tour mates at the airport, we could share a cab (or I can scam my way onto one of their 'airport transfers' which is considerably more than the estimated cost of a taxi - I wonder if this 'bracket' is long enough to be it's own sentence, outside of a bracket... nah)

It is clearly time to start packing so I have something else to concentrate on.  

Packing seems like it will be a new post so I will sign off on this one.  

A lemur for closure

A Red Ruffed Lemur
😐😐

Nosy Boraha/Ile Saint Marie

(I'm starting this in the Madagascar airport)  As discussed ad nauseam in my last post, I was delayed but finally made it to St Marie th...